Hawaiian Two Foot
"May's gonna be flat." Many on the mainland said it, those classic surfer words from the guys who sit and look at the charts all day, searching for small bands of purple swell on computer screens. The unglorified reality of much of this sport is that everyone is basically a amature ocean forecaster. They weren't... Continue Reading →
The Old Man in the Pink Towel
He looked like Hawaiian Danny Trejo but with an extra 60 pounds. His walk was predictably slow, dragging his worn out flip-flops, who's foam had long ago given away underneath yellow rusting feet. The kind of shoes that had been flattened for so long by this massive man that I can only wonder what kind... Continue Reading →
The Seedlings
It could have started the night we slept under the stars, on top of buried fire rocks and someone woke up to the smell of their sleeping bag melting to their newly hair free leg. It could have been a misconstrued conversation through snorkels, where one person was saying "hey look at that fish" and... Continue Reading →
Bigfoot Island
This wasn't the first time I'd gone in search of that indomitable creature that stalks these misty hills, creeping through rain-soaked and moss-drenched nurse logs. The aloof man-ape known to some as Bigfoot. Others call this mystic beast the sasquatch, yeti, a shaggy guide to a higher consciousness and secret wave breaks. No sir, it... Continue Reading →
Monster Ride Freakout
A post card I made for national letter writing month. There is still one week left! Don't miss out: https://urbanadventureleague.wordpress.com/2015/02/02/letter-and-postard-writing-month-2015/
Speak Easy Friends
Eric used to meet me at an undisclosed location at 6 or 7am. For the next four or five hours we would run the still, sip morning rum and hope it all wouldn't explode (for the record it never even got close). You can read about the early times here. When you start a new hobby,... Continue Reading →
35mm Summer
I finally got a roll of film I'd been working on since the Lomo Ride developed...and most of the shots didn't turn out. That's just the way it goes when you're experimenting. Fortunately, some of those shots turned out pretty cool. All of these were taken with analog cameras including disposables, Polaroids, and Holgas.