Hawaiian Two Foot


“May’s gonna be flat.” Many on the mainland said it, those classic surfer words from the guys who sit and look at the charts all day, searching for small bands of purple swell on computer screens. The unglorified reality of much of this sport is that everyone is basically a amature ocean forecaster. They weren’t wrong but not exactly right either.

When our little band of Americans, Canadians and Australians finally got to the North Shore of Oahu, we were glad it was forecasted at two foot. Our greeting party was lava rock and slabby waves, with crystal clear bottoms. The turtles kept things friendly but everything else looked pretty hectic. As the week went on the waves cleaned up before eventually dying completely.

Off season is great, no crowds and the local guys where really friendly, showing us the difference between chums, pipeline and the other multitude of peaks all stacked onto each other in the mericle 8 miles.

Its hard to tell, but the surf pictures where Lauren’s first time shooting something like this.

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