Category Archives: traveling

Measured my days, metered my years

Days: 37

Kilometers traveled (not including airplanes): 2,827

Longest bus ride: 22 hours

Movies watched on buses: 8

Best bus movie: Tony Jaa double feature (Ong Bak: las gurreas y la protectora)

Worst bus movie: El Duende (The Leprechaun)

Cities visited: 11

wingspan of biggest bug: aprox. 5 inches

Arepas consumed: 17

Couches surfed: 2

Taxidermy challenges in the Popayan Natural History Museum: at least 2

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The Colombian cocaine trade has been effecting the squirrels

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Statistics are cool right?! right. I know this is kind of a lazy post but it’s the best way I can sum up the last few weeks of traveling. Honestly, I’m pretty ready to find a place to settle down for a bit. How about teaching English at public schools in Puerto Lopez, Ecuador? Sounds good! I’ll be joining the Cafe de Lenguas y Cultura next Monday for a 1-3 month position. I know some of you that read B&S have done this kind of thing, so I’d be stoked to hear any of your ideas. I’ll leave you with a few more pictures.

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The Man in the Wool Suit

The man behind the counter smiled and shrugged, in that “awww, shucks”, kind of way that only real country people can pull off. He wasnt discourteous nor helpful about our predicament, only offering slightly rotten smiles each time we asked a different questions.

“Gas stations closed.” At the incredulous hour of 7:00 Friday night.

“Nope, no cell service. You’re in the Caitlins now.” It wasnt an answer as much as it was a sales pitch for his card operated phone booth located in font of his shoppe.

“If you call now the one up the road might be open. Depends on how many are there still drink’n.” Good to know you can get gas to drive home after drinking.

So we did what anyone would do, we called “up the road”, and asked the station/bar, to stay open just a little bit longer, so we could fill up and make the wet and winding 140km journey back to our batch.He said we have ’til 8 or so, then hes shut’n shoppe.

We’d set sail amidst a storm only recognizable by Oregonians and gnarled sea hands. The wind was the only sound in our radio free quest across the heart of South New Zealand. It was loud. This was not the New Zealand I had hoped to show my in-laws, this was something fierce. I couldn’t help but have the emotion of let down experienced when you take a friend, or a date to your favorite restaurant, and somehow, dispite all odds and history, it lets you down.  But I was wrong, the Caitlins didn’t let us down. As the only car on the road, we found an alternative and intimate experience to the region. As it happens so often, I needed to adapt myself to overcome my preconceived travel expectations, in order to find what I needed to find, not what I wanted to find.

This trip was the first with my new camera, so I will document it mostly through photos, many of which where taken by Linzays dad-Grant. As you’ll see hes pretty good with the glass.

Moonshine & Possum Hunt’n

The spent shell cartridges flee from the breech of the rifle and ping off the window down into the plastic dashboard. I imagine a trail of smoke following them down into those God forsaken car crevasses– the holes where things disappear and grow sticky.  Now is not the time to think about trivial things. This is serious. This is Possum hunting (not Opossum).

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This, is a kiwi drive by from the comfort of a Range Rover. My gun is propped on the windowsill, barrel pointed out, the lazer dot locked on a hapless hare. I finish him and we speed back off through the rolling paddocks, fields, and into the forest.

Grant, my wife’s dad, is in the back. A 5-shot tactical shotgun sits casually in his lap; a small grin on his face. Taz is the eyes of this operation. He scans the abyss with a spotlight, searching for those evil, little eyes poking out from beneath the impossibly starry night.

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“Grant, right side in the wood stack.” It’s not quite a whisper, but Taz doesn’t seem like the type of man to whisper. He gets his point across. All too quickly Grant is out of the car and the world is rid of two more possums. He wields the steel with precision– a frightening thing to see from your father-in-law. I pull another one from a tree top using the scope. The big grey hangs by its tail  for a second before falling in a heap at my feet. Seconds later we are plucking the soft, valuable fur off and  then it’s back to the car for a warm up and a quick nip of cinnamon shine.

Possum

By no means am I a violent man. I was raised in a pacifist no-mans-land between an  agnostic vegetarian and a Christian. But this is New Zealand and possums are an imported plague. They eat native plants, endangered kiwi birds and baby birds. They are known to do so much ecological damage that it forces them to cannibalize one another. I’m not going to say I didn’t feel bad shooting the fuzzy baby possum off its mothers back, but it is the right thing to do for the environment. In a way, I imagine myself to be one of Captain Planet’s planeteers, just with a shotgun instead of a ring. Certainly not the heart ring.

Taz runs Southern Lakes Hunting Guides, and can take you on one of his cultural and “ecological”  experiences. I hear a bike version may be on the way soon, you know, to save the emissions.

Fruit Review: Maracuya

IMG_3766I just read a book on fruit at the Medellin botanical garden and tried to remember names of the cool looking ones. But all that info goes out the door once you’re on the street and vendors are shouting the virtues of their produce through loudspeakers on their home made carts. We picked up an egg shaped specimen at a bustling market called La Vacita. It was golden in color and felt like plastic. “Es Dulce?” I asked the older lady sorting through avocados  “very sweet” She replied. That was enough to convince me.

Back at our hostel, the French owner cracked it open for us. I was shocked to find our golden egg was filled with what looked like tadpoles. Tropical fruit is always full of surprises but this one seemed dark and strange. It was like a Kinder Egg from a Guillemo del Toro movie. The gel covered seeds tasted like lychee but not quite as tart. They had a satisfying crunch but I couldn’t help but think I was eating frog babies. Delicious, sweet, gel covered babies.